dogtvcom wrote:I'm just gonna give some quick thoughts here... Gotty looks like a happy guy.
I have lived in muliple large dog households for the past 14 years or so. Seen many fights and scuffles and showdowns. I am of the opinion that crating and barriers only exacerbate the problem. They make it a ticking time bomb. Eventually the issue has to be dealt with. However, not everyone is capable of breaking up a dog fight between strong dogs if one occurs, so it's reasonable to be afraid and rely on cages and barriers.
That's okay for a time, but is not a long term solution.
But here's the thing. A family who walks together and runs together and plays together becomes a pack and will be much less likely to fight in the house and have the need to be separated in the house.
With fighting dogs, get them to get along on walks, *outside* the house first. Preferably long walks. This is where they become a pack. On the hunt. And to a dog, a walk is a hunt. The more you segregate dogs, the less familiar they are with each other, and the more testy they will be if they come in contact.
That being said, you also have to be ready and have the tools ready to break up fights and you should expect them to occur if you decide to move away from the segregation angle. I use basketballs, tennis rackets (I like sports equipment!). But it's not so much breaking up fights that is important. What is important is breaking up the thoughts which lead to fighting.
So I'm just going to give you one step for starters. More walks or yard play together with the antagonistic dogs.
michael
So I'm just going to give you one step for starters. More walks or yard play together with the antagonistic dogs.
With fighting dogs, get them to get along on walks, *outside* the house first. Preferably long walks. This is where they become a pack. On the hunt. And to a dog, a walk is a hunt. The more you segregate dogs, the less familiar they are with each other, and the more testy they will be if they come in contact.
I have lived in muliple large dog households for the past 14 years or so. Seen many fights and scuffles and showdowns. I am of the opinion that crating and barriers only exacerbate the problem. They make it a ticking time bomb. Eventually the issue has to be dealt with. However, not everyone is capable of breaking up a dog fight between strong dogs if one occurs, so it's reasonable to be afraid and rely on cages and barriers.
But here's the thing. A family who walks together and runs together and plays together becomes a pack and will be much less likely to fight in the house and have the need to be separated in the house.
With fighting dogs, get them to get along on walks, *outside* the house first. Preferably long walks. This is where they become a pack. On the hunt. And to a dog, a walk is a hunt. The more you segregate dogs, the less familiar they are with each other, and the more testy they will be if they come in contact.
That being said, you also have to be ready and have the tools ready to break up fights and you should expect them to occur if you decide to move away from the segregation angle. I use basketballs, tennis rackets (I like sports equipment!)
So I'm just going to give you one step for starters. More walks or yard play together with the antagonistic dogs.
The most dangerous tactic is to avoid the issue. It's like watching a football team go into "prevent" defense. The only thing it prevents is winning. It's hard to confront dog aggression head on. It's a risk. It is dangerous, yes. But not nearly as dangerous as not confronting it.
So I see you're not a dog trainer or a dog behaviorist. Thanks for the heads up but I already figured that out. But you are a respected regular here and I expected some flack from people who don't agree with me and this is completely normal. Nice to meet you too.
dogtvcom wrote:
I have lived in muliple large dog households for the past 14 years or so. Seen many fights and scuffles and showdowns. I am of the opinion that crating and barriers only exacerbate the problem. They make it a ticking time bomb. Eventually the issue has to be dealt with. However, not everyone is capable of breaking up a dog fight between strong dogs if one occurs, so it's reasonable to be afraid and rely on cages and barriers.
That's okay for a time, but is not a long term solution.
But here's the thing. A family who walks together and runs together and plays together becomes a pack and will be much less likely to fight in the house and have the need to be separated in the house.
With fighting dogs, get them to get along on walks, *outside* the house first. Preferably long walks. This is where they become a pack. On the hunt. And to a dog, a walk is a hunt. The more you segregate dogs, the less familiar they are with each other, and the more testy they will be if they come in contact.
That being said, you also have to be ready and have the tools ready to break up fights and you should expect them to occur if you decide to move away from the segregation angle. I use basketballs, tennis rackets (I like sports equipment!). But it's not so much breaking up fights that is important. What is important is breaking up the thoughts which lead to fighting.
In any dog fight, there will be an aggressor. One dog who is firestarter. One dog who is more eager for the fight. Grab that dog. Don't worry about the other dog. Get control of one dog and you get control of the fight. Smaller dogs, you can lift off the ground to remove them from the fray. Bigger dogs, you whip around and face them away from the other dog. In the fight video cited in the resource section, the human/fight breaker upper picks up an 80 lb dog and removes him from the scene. If you can't lift a dog that large or larger, try to whip them around and face them away from the other dog.
NONE of the previous applies to a fight involving two dogs who are willingly engaged in that fight. If the dogs are eagerly going at it and you lift one of them up, the other dog will likely bite its stomach. If you immobilize one, the other will take advantage of it. When TWO dogs are fighting, you must control them BOTH. If only one wants to fight, the above MIGHT work (but don’t count on it) but if both want to fight forget it.
DemoDick wrote:LOL...Michael, if you are ever in my neck of the woods, I have a dog that you can try your basketball correction on. You'll need (1) good health insurance and (2) a pen to sign the waiver. I'll have an ambulance on standby.
Demo Dick
dogtvcom wrote:DemoDick wrote:LOL...Michael, if you are ever in my neck of the woods, I have a dog that you can try your basketball correction on. You'll need (1) good health insurance and (2) a pen to sign the waiver. I'll have an ambulance on standby.
Demo Dick
I guess you have a dog fighting problem at your house (or you don't allow them in contact with each other)? I cannot diagnose your problem over the internet but there are many skilled and experienced people here who can assist you with their thoughts and ideas.
mp
dogtvcom wrote:You're just being ridiculously hypercritical. This is standard and normal forum owner behavior and may ease or regulate itself with time, depending upon the behavior of the humble interloper.
dogtvcom wrote:Since I'm a busy guy, and because I have a larger mission than to point/counterpoint you all night or week, I'm going to let you believe that I'm dangerous, clueless, don't know what I'm doing if that works for you.
But since I don't really need your advice on dog training issues, maybe you can provide me some guidance on email list management. I am in the process of starting an informal political party and I need an industrial strength contact management solution.
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