On 03/06/2007 10:59 AM, brooksybrooks1 wrote:i use it not because i'm giving him a lot of corrections or because he's out of control, but because when i want him to out or stop barking or lay down he doesn't, at this point, really get the message without it.
On March 06 2007, 4:31 PM, Big_Ant wrote:OK, I hate to be an a$$, but since no one else will be . . .
WHERE DO YOU SEE A BARK AND HOLD IN THOSE PICTURES??? Do you understand what a bark and hold is? Maybe your camera was slow and you only caught the bark, and he decided to skip the Hold???????
Then he shouldn't be taking bites yet, and definitely not bites in adverse situations like a table/booth. People are so damn quick to get to the bitework these days they'll pass on some of the more basic of necessities won't they.
On 03/06/2007 2:47 PM, cheekymunkee wrote:Uh, there is more than one person whose dogs take bites but are not so hot on the "out".
It's a learning process, she's learning, as is her dog.
If you have questions for her, ask them.
no need to be rude to her.
Exactly, it's a learning process. My problem with the 'learning' is that those bites are, IMO, for a dog that is much more advanced, and has their Obedience down first. But then again, I guess this goes back to the whole, 'to each their own', that you guys keep spouting about.
On 03/06/2007 3:18 PM, DemoDick wrote:
I don't do obedience first, and don't advocate it for a bitework dog. Large amounts of obedience work in a young dog can squash drive early and create an inhibited animal. I like to teach the mechanics of bitework in prey and add pressure as the dog matures and can handle it. Yeah, the dog acts like an a$$ for a few months but he learns to give everything he can in the bitework. If the obedience is done correctly later, you will end up with good control. I would still teach the dog manners when he's not working, however.
People are so damn quick to get to the bitework these days they'll pass on some of the more basic of necessities won't they.
Large amounts of obedience work in a young dog can squash drive early and create an inhibited animal
This can also happen with a dog that is primarily marker trained (actually it can get much worse in such a dog). Instead of squashing drive with corrections you create a dog whose first instinct is to look to the handler for a reward, instead of to the decoy.
Inhibition is something you want in a dog that does bitework. That way the "handler" can control the dog that much more. As far as inhibiting drive....not sure about that. I guess it would depend on what someones interpretation of drive is.
Bitework is very exciting for the handler and the dog. It's also dangerous. It's a dog biting someone. That's why I agree with Ant. Logic, to me, dictates having a dog that is obscenely obedient prior to introduction to bitework. It's a safety thing.
If you want him to stay focused on the decoy then that's what you reward.
i will say this though-tell me how you teach a dog who has never had a bite before how to out during a bite?! sure, you can teach him on a spring pole, or a tug, or a ball, or whatever, but when a dog is in protection drive it is very different.
Users browsing this forum: No registered users