Jaeger's hold & bark. Any suggestions?

Weight pull, Protection, Agility, Flyball... you name it!

Postby Ultimatek9 » January 22nd, 2007, 10:45 pm

Here are some pictures we took of Jaeger yesterday at training. We are working on teaching him a hold and bark. Jaeger is now 9 months old. His grip has really improved over the past couple of months.


Image Image

Image Image

Image Image

Image Image

Image Image

Image

Thanks for looking. I think Jaeger is coming along really well. Please let me know your comments, suggestions, etc.; anything that you think I should be doing differently. A couple months ago I was told to "post" him, which I did, and it really improved his strike and grip. So let me know. Thanks.
Carla Ann
UWP UAGI Medwin Jaeger Von Deuce CGC TT TD SD HIC FD FDX FDCH FDCH-S FDCH-G WP3
UWP CH Lil Bit O' Hennessy CGC TT TD FD FDX FDCH WP3 TDA(3x)
CH 'PR' Diablo Bullys Patron On The Rocks CGC TT TD
Bullocks Mak'n U Green With Envy
Diablos My Time To Shine
User avatar
Ultimatek9
Snot Nose Bully Pup
 
Posts: 121
Location: Florida

Postby DemoDick » January 23rd, 2007, 7:03 pm

Any chance you can post video? Pictures are too static to really see what is going on.

Demo Dick
User avatar
DemoDick
They Like to Fondle My Gun
 
Posts: 1910
Location: New York

Postby Ultimatek9 » January 24th, 2007, 5:42 pm

Here are the videos that my husband took of Sunday's training. They are a little hard to see.

If you have Windows Media Player use these links:
http://ultimatek9companions.com/Jaegerholdandbark.WMV
http://ultimatek9companions.com/Jaegerholdandbark2.WMV

If not use these links:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kt9AnvYyldE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZmUnOuQ8WU
Carla Ann
UWP UAGI Medwin Jaeger Von Deuce CGC TT TD SD HIC FD FDX FDCH FDCH-S FDCH-G WP3
UWP CH Lil Bit O' Hennessy CGC TT TD FD FDX FDCH WP3 TDA(3x)
CH 'PR' Diablo Bullys Patron On The Rocks CGC TT TD
Bullocks Mak'n U Green With Envy
Diablos My Time To Shine
User avatar
Ultimatek9
Snot Nose Bully Pup
 
Posts: 121
Location: Florida

Postby DemoDick » January 26th, 2007, 1:21 am

I forgot to ask what sport you are training for. That's pretty important information and may make a difference in how you teach the exercise. I'll assume you just want a basic Sch. B&H.

(Disclaimer-I don't train Sch. and am new to the B&H myself)

It's obvious that the dog wants to bite, and kind of understands that barking is what gets him that bite. I would work on teaching him that the ONLY way he's going to get that bite is to perform the exercise correctly.

In the first video the decoy moved too much before the bite. While a little movement can be helpful to help the dog maintain intensity later, at this stage I would want the decoy to stand like a statue. The bite should only come as a reward for controlled, rhythmic barking to "animate" the decoy. I would have him stand with his back to a large stationary object to make it harder for the dog to push him around.

In the second video it looks like he anticipated the dog taking a dirty bite and he actually moved to avoid it, which only reinforces the unwanted behavior. It's up to you to handle the long line so as to immediately correct a dirty intial bite. You need to see it coming and if necessary correct the instant before he puts his mouth on the sleeve. At the same time an untimely little flinch from the decoy will undermine your correction. Handler and decoy have to work together with perfect timing.

I would go back a step or two, put the dog in a sit square in front of the decoy (have him stand completely motionless) and give your B&H command. Stand about six feet from the dog to make it easier to handle him. As soon as he barks twice in rythm I would have the decoy pop the sleeve and attempt to flee backwards. That can be extended to three barks, then four. It should be a very black and white picture in which the ONLY thing that produces a bite (or any motion from the decoy) is clean, forceful barking. Once I get a consistent clean bark I like to have the decoy intermittently give the bite so as to keep the dog on his toes and in high drive.

Once he understands that CLEAN barking is the fuel that gets the decoy moving it will be easier to send him from a little further out without him molesting the decoy.

I'd like to get Nelson's opinion on this one personally. He's an actual trainer (I'm not) and could offer good input.

Demo Dick
User avatar
DemoDick
They Like to Fondle My Gun
 
Posts: 1910
Location: New York

Postby DemoDick » January 26th, 2007, 10:50 am

One more thing...your decoy slipped the sleeve when the dog had a 3/4 grip. I would work to get the dog to counter full and reward that with a slip.

Demo Dick
User avatar
DemoDick
They Like to Fondle My Gun
 
Posts: 1910
Location: New York

Postby Dameon » January 26th, 2007, 2:46 pm

you may want to hook the leash up to just the pinch collar. it will allow you to give a quick and clear correction. its hard to give corrections through a harness.
Dameon
Just Whelped
 
Posts: 7
Location: Tennessee

Postby Ultimatek9 » January 26th, 2007, 5:39 pm

The long-line was hooked to his prong, the short lead was hooked to his harness (for after he "won" the sleeve). But Jaeger still barely responds to a prong correction when he is in drive.
Carla Ann
UWP UAGI Medwin Jaeger Von Deuce CGC TT TD SD HIC FD FDX FDCH FDCH-S FDCH-G WP3
UWP CH Lil Bit O' Hennessy CGC TT TD FD FDX FDCH WP3 TDA(3x)
CH 'PR' Diablo Bullys Patron On The Rocks CGC TT TD
Bullocks Mak'n U Green With Envy
Diablos My Time To Shine
User avatar
Ultimatek9
Snot Nose Bully Pup
 
Posts: 121
Location: Florida

Postby DemoDick » January 29th, 2007, 8:29 pm

Take a look at these videos. Note that the decoy remains as still as possible, even though he's filming. The sleeve doesn't move unless the dog barks clean. When he takes a dirty bite in the first video, the decoy froze and I immediately corrected him off of the bite. He instantly began barking as a strategy to get the decoy to flee. The second send he body-slammed the decoy but did not bite or "bump" the sleeve. These were the first two sends of the day and only about the sixth time the dog has done this. We were also in a completely new environment.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xg3wJpOX2c

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQwNSX2u2Cg

While the dog is learning the behavior you and the decoy must be on the same page and work toward the same goal. If the decoy is fidgeting it's not fair to expect the dog to stay clean. And if you are correcting the dog for biting while the decoy is moving you are going to completely confuse the dog and create conflict.

Demo Dick
User avatar
DemoDick
They Like to Fondle My Gun
 
Posts: 1910
Location: New York


Return to Sports

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot]

cron