I'll try to explain it, but I can't video it... my dogs rarely pull now because they know it's coming! I don't use the prong for training anymore with Riggs and Ruby is 100% collar smart; so now prong collar = going for a walk or a run, not training.
A prong correction is a quick "pop" that is over as soon as it starts. Your dog should never be "dragged" by the collar. Unless you are actually using the collar for a correction, the leash should be in a J, or at least the clip of the collar should be laying on the dogs neck.
A correct correction often makes the dog yelp a little at first. You are not injuring your dog, but yes, it hurts. If you feel bad about that "hurt" put the collar on your arm or leg (or neck if you so choose) and give it a good pop. It is not exactly excruciating, but you do notice it. The skin on a dog's neck is much tougher than human skin, which is why you want the prong fitted right at the top of the neck because that is the most sensitive part of a not-overly-sensitive area.
When you learn the proper force for your dog, it should only take one or two corrections to get the point across. If you have to nag your dog you are not doing it right. Nagging is useful for some applications, but not for most.
You should put the collar on an hour before you plan to use it, and leave it on for an hour afterwards, that helps with the dog not becoming collar smart.
Many people use a backup collar, just in case. I prefer a nylon choke chain because it is silent and can hang loosly at the base of the dog's neck; not interfering with the prong at all.
Inside me is a thin woman trying to get out. I usually shut the bitch up with a martini.